article 23

Mainichi Daily News: December 18, 1999

Richard Humphries introduces the natural wonders of Miyajima.

Intrepid travelers in the ancient Near East had seven "wonders of the world" to highlight their journeys. Such marvels alas, with one exception, would not figure on any modern itinerary. All were completely manmade and as such suffered the combined ravages of age, war, and other disasters. They were not rebuilt.

In Japan, there is a tradition that recognizes the transience inherent in such works of humanity. Accordingly, when it comes to "wonders," special mention is accorded to a special architect, one whose handiwork is often sturdier and longer lasting than that of mere mortals. Nature is seen as having played a lead role in designing the Nihon Sankei, or "three famous views of Japan." These wonders include the bay of Matsushima, the sandbar at Amanohashidate, and the island of Miyajima. Miyajima is particularly interesting since humanity has played a vital supporting role in complementing nature's creation, at least in terms of the structures that highlight its famous view.

These days visitors usually arrive via Hiroshima, less than one hour away by train and ferry. That city has its austere Peace Park, symbol of the destructive potential in humanity. Therefore, a visit to Miyajima can be a restorative of sorts, as its picturesque setting can serve to calm the soul after the doubts one finds in Hiroshima. Humanity can perhaps work in concert with nature.

The island is composed of granite and is largely covered with forests. Roughly thirty square kilometers in size, it rises some 530 meters to the summit at Mt. Misen. Two manmade structures in particular stand out and so are easily visible during the seaward approach. The first is a massive vermilion torii gate, which at 16 meters high is the largest wooden one in Japan. This gate lies some 160 meters from the shore line and is made from camphor wood. At low tide it is possible to walk from shore to its columns. The present torii, built in 1875, is the eighth in a line that dates back to Heian times. At one time it was believed to welcome the spirits of the departed as they crossed the seas. It is now the most well-known symbol of the island.

Situated some distance behind the torii is the Itsukushima Shrine. As one approaches by ferry during high tide, the shrine's appearances is intriguingly deceptive. Its orange lacquered buildings appear to float on the surface of the water. Clearly that was the intent of its builders. First constructed in 593 AD, it was originally dedicated to those spirits responsible for protecting seamen and fishermen. The shrine is perhaps at its best during early evenings when candles placed in its many lanterns are lit and subtle reflections can been seen on the water's surface.

Later in history the shrine came under the protection of powerful national personalities. For the Taira family, especially the 12th century strongman Kiyomori, Itsukushima was special and received lavish attention. Additional pavilions were built. Ironically, the Taira clan, concerned as they were with appeasing the spirits of the seas, were to lose power after a great defeat on water. The fall of the Taira did not mean the end of Itsukushima, though. Sailors in the Inland Sea continued to need spiritual protection from the elements.

Not everyone in the past was allowed to set foot on Miyajima. For years commoners were barred and until recently some limitations have persisted, even if only in the public imagination. While 2,444 people now reside on the island, there exists a folklore tradition that it is unlucky for romantic couples to disembark there. A jealous goddess, resident on the island, is said to be responsible for any bad eventualities. According to Michiko Mizota of the Miyajima Tourist Association, this worry is less of a consideration today and it is even common for couples to be married at Itsukushima Shrine. She suggested a possible cause for the jealous goddess myth. Miyajima once possessed a highly frequented red-light district. Perhaps men needed a plausible reason to persuade their wives not to accompany them to the island.

There was another restrictive tradition that was concerned with birth and burial. At one time the land was considered so sacred that births and deaths were not permitted. Children are now born there but burials occur elsewhere. This is not due to religious considerations but rather to the lack of space and facilities.

A must for visitors is the outstanding view from the top of Mt. Misen. Getting there involves either a hike or a more leisurely passage on the two-stage gondola/ropeway, completed in April 1959. The shortest path up the mountain or to the ropeway way takes you past a beautiful 5-storied pagoda, finished in 1407 and done in a clever fusion of Japanese and Chinese styles, and through a small glade known as Momijidani Park. Momiji are maple leaves and some say the island is at its best in late November when this foliage is at its most colorful. The colors do bring large crowds though (one-hour waits at the ropeway do happen on weekends) so that other times of the year are certainly worth consideration.

Mt. Misen is not only home to resident spirits but also to groups of tame deer and some rather less than tame monkeys. Signs (in Japanese with English translations) depicting the appropriate protocol when dealing with the latter are placed where paths cross. Evidently, staring at these monkeys is frowned upon since it is likely to provoke their aggressive and acquisitive tendencies.

One possibility is to take the ropeway up Misen and then walk down. There are three main hiking trails and two of them, the Omoto and the Daishoin, are less frequented and therefore quieter. Unless one spends the night on the island, quiet is hard to come by. Miyajima's huge popularity has led to commercial intrusion. There are the inevitable souvenir shops with assorted kitsch to entice visitors but fortunately these shops are clustered in one area not far from the ferry terminal. These do offer some items of interest, however. For example, the island is known for its woodwork, especially a type of rice scoop that does not transfer its scent to the cooked grain during use. These can make useful souvenirs. Without a doubt though, the best souvenir of Miyajima is the memory of its superb view. (RH)


	Island Views Mainichi Daily News: December 18, 1999 Richard Humphries introduces the natural wonders of Miyajima. Intrepid travelers in the ancient Near East had seven "wonders of the world" to highlight their journeys. Such marvels alas, with one exception, would not figure on any modern itinerary. All were completely manmade and as such suffered the combined ravages of age, war, and other disasters. They were not rebuilt. In Japan, there is a tradition that recognizes the transience inherent in such works of humanity. Accordingly, when it comes to "wonders," special mention is accorded to a special architect, one whose handiwork is often sturdier and longer lasting than that of mere mortals. Nature is seen as having played a lead role in designing the Nihon Sankei, or "three famous views of Japan." These wonders include the bay of Matsushima, the sandbar at Amanohashidate, and the island of Miyajima. Miyajima is particularly interesting since humanity has played a vital supporting role in complementing nature's creation, at least in terms of the structures that highlight its famous view. These days visitors usually arrive via Hiroshima, less than one hour away by train and ferry. That city has its austere Peace Park, symbol of the destructive potential in humanity. Therefore, a visit to Miyajima can be a restorative of sorts, as its picturesque setting can serve to calm the soul after the doubts one finds in Hiroshima. Humanity can perhaps work in concert with nature. The island is composed of granite and is largely covered with forests. Roughly thirty square kilometers in size, it rises some 530 meters to the summit at Mt. Misen. Two manmade structures in particular stand out and so are easily visible during the seaward approach. The first is a massive vermilion torii gate, which at 16 meters high is the largest wooden one in Japan. This gate lies some 160 meters from the shore line and is made from camphor wood. At low tide it is possible to walk from shore to its columns. The present torii, built in 1875, is the eighth in a line that dates back to Heian times. At one time it was believed to welcome the spirits of the departed as they crossed the seas. It is now the most well-known symbol of the island. Situated some distance behind the torii is the Itsukushima Shrine. As one approaches by ferry during high tide, the shrine's appearances is intriguingly deceptive. Its orange lacquered buildings appear to float on the surface of the water. Clearly that was the intent of its builders. First constructed in 593 AD, it was originally dedicated to those spirits responsible for protecting seamen and fishermen. The shrine is perhaps at its best during early evenings when candles placed in its many lanterns are lit and subtle reflections can been seen on the water's surface. Later in history the shrine came under the protection of powerful national personalities. For the Taira family, especially the 12th century strongman Kiyomori, Itsukushima was special and received lavish attention. Additional pavilions were built. Ironically, the Taira clan, concerned as they were with appeasing the spirits of the seas, were to lose power after a great defeat on water. The fall of the Taira did not mean the end of Itsukushima, though. Sailors in the Inland Sea continued to need spiritual protection from the elements. Not everyone in the past was allowed to set foot on Miyajima. For years commoners were barred and until recently some limitations have persisted, even if only in the public imagination. While 2,444 people now reside on the island, there exists a folklore tradition that it is unlucky for romantic couples to disembark there. A jealous goddess, resident on the island, is said to be responsible for any bad eventualities. According to Michiko Mizota of the Miyajima Tourist Association, this worry is less of a consideration today and it is even common for couples to be married at Itsukushima Shrine. She suggested a possible cause for the jealous goddess myth. Miyajima once possessed a highly frequented red-light district. Perhaps men needed a plausible reason to persuade their wives not to accompany them to the island. There was another restrictive tradition that was concerned with birth and burial. At one time the land was considered so sacred that births and deaths were not permitted. Children are now born there but burials occur elsewhere. This is not due to religious considerations but rather to the lack of space and facilities. A must for visitors is the outstanding view from the top of Mt. Misen. Getting there involves either a hike or a more leisurely passage on the two-stage gondola/ropeway, completed in April 1959. The shortest path up the mountain or to the ropeway way takes you past a beautiful 5-storied pagoda, finished in 1407 and done in a clever fusion of Japanese and Chinese styles, and through a small glade known as Momijidani Park. Momiji are maple leaves and some say the island is at its best in late November when this foliage is at its most colorful. The colors do bring large crowds though (one-hour waits at the ropeway do happen on weekends) so that other times of the year are certainly worth consideration. Mt. Misen is not only home to resident spirits but also to groups of tame deer and some rather less than tame monkeys. Signs (in Japanese with English translations) depicting the appropriate protocol when dealing with the latter are placed where paths cross. Evidently, staring at these monkeys is frowned upon since it is likely to provoke their aggressive and acquisitive tendencies. One possibility is to take the ropeway up Misen and then walk down. There are three main hiking trails and two of them, the Omoto and the Daishoin, are less frequented and therefore quieter. Unless one spends the night on the island, quiet is hard to come by. Miyajima's huge popularity has led to commercial intrusion. There are the inevitable souvenir shops with assorted kitsch to entice visitors but fortunately these shops are clustered in one area not far from the ferry terminal. These do offer some items of interest, however. For example, the island is known for its woodwork, especially a type of rice scoop that does not transfer its scent to the cooked grain during use. These can make useful souvenirs. Without a doubt though, the best souvenir of Miyajima is the memory of its superb view. (RH)