Levoca, in Eastern Slovakia

By Richard Humphries

Asahi Weekly, March 21, 2004

Big things can come in small packages, and the town of Levoca in eastern Slovakia certainly fits the bill. It is a small town with just 12,000 residents. But its history is big enough.

Formerly called Leutschau, Levoca was settled in the 13th century by Saxon-German immigrants. These settlers were brought in by Hungarian rulers, after Tartar (Mongol) invasions largely depopulated the area. The town prospered mightily due to its status as a "royal free town." Essentially, this meant Levoca was very much a duty-free center. Not only did merchants there not have to pay taxes, but by law any traders passing through had to give Levoca's merchants the right of first purchase and at reasonable prices.

The result, clearly visible today, is a well-preserved, beautiful and compact town full of Renaissance-style buildings and surrounded by a substantially intact set of stone walls. The main cathedral, St. James, possesses the world's highest Gothic altar, designed by a local 16th century artist of genius, Master Paul. Today, aside from Slovakians, the town is especially popular with Hungarian and German visitors.

Not all the attractions are without controversy. For example, there is the 16th century "Cage of Shame" situated near the Old Town Hall. This cage was reserved for those women caught outside and alone, after dark. Maria Spernogova, a sprightly and well-spoken guide at the Old Town Hall Museum, noted, "Ironically, the first victim of this cage was the daughter of the very mayor who made the law." The cage, one should say, has not been used for its original purpose for many years, though everyone wants to see it.

Inside the Old Town Hall there is a painting of Levoca's famous and mysterious White Lady. This unnamed woman was supposed to have betrayed the town during an unsuccessful revolt against Hapsburg, Austria, in the early 18th century. But for Maria Spernogova, this was just another case of blaming women for men's faults. "Actually what really happened was the 12-man local council simply surrendered the town after a three-month siege," she noted. "There probably never even was a White Lady."

Although there is a newer town hall for daily administrative matters, one room, the main session one in the Old Town Hall, is still used for weddings and for other ceremonial functions. "In 1998, that room was used by the presidents of Central European countries for a summit," Maria said. "Just like in the past, using the round table here meant that each person was equal."

It was winter when I visited Levoca, and it was clear that one recreational activity was popular with all ages, both for playing and watching, and that was ice hockey. At the town rink, people practiced during the day and at night, there were games. It is no secret that some of the world's best hockey players come from Slovakia and from its neighbor (and until 1993 fellow countrymen), the Czech Republic. Perhaps some of the younger players in the rink were future National Hockey League stars. Slovak television will show both North American NHL games and those between major Slovak teams.

Maria mentioned that local unemployment was high at some 30 percent in Levoca, and that locals were hoping for an expansion of tourism. I did meet one energetic shopkeeper who had expanded his business in recent years. Franticek Brincko owns a photo developing shop in the town center.

"I have had a shop in Levoca for eight years. Recently, I have started doing weddings and now do about 30 a year," he said showing me an album of his work. "I like using Nikon, although camera gear is very expensive here in Slovakia."

In early July, Levoca loses quite a bit of its smallness. Just above the town lies Marianska Hora, a sacred hill with a church, which are both dedicated to the Virgin Mary. For centuries this has been a major Catholic pilgrimage site though not one, it appears, based on any particular set of miracles. Locals were simply relieved when the Mongol and Tartar invasions stopped and didn't credit any miracles.

Nor is it a miracle at how a small town such as Levoca can cope with being a major pilgrimage site. Slovaks, who love hiking in the country's beautiful Tatra Mountains, are no strangers to roughing it outdoors.

"Most of the pilgrims camp out on the mountainside and bring their own food. There are as many as 250,000," Ms. Spernogova told me. "But when Pope John Paul II came in 1995 there were even more pilgrims on the hill, over 600,000." (RH)